Do you buy houseplants on impulse, especially when you come across new varieties? We must learn to restrain ourselves and figure out where to place the plants, display effect, as well as how to take care of them. We must also consider whether we should spend so much money to buy them. Large plants are very expensive. It is also advisable to check around for the best prices.
Advice On How To Get The Plant Home Safely After Purchase
When a particularly large plant is purchased, request to have it delivered for you as taking it safely can be a problem. Also try to transport tropical plants on warm days. Protect the tender leaves and flowers with a polythene bag, or some sheets of newspaper, and seal it at the top to shield from cold air if the weather is cold. For small plants which may have brittle leaves and stems that can be easily damage, request the retailer to pack the plant in a cardboard box padded with some old newspaper in order to avoid crushing them during the journey home, especially if it's a long journey.
GARDEN PLANTS | LIFE SPAN OF PLANTS
Every plant has life span which kind of dictate how it is going to live. The short life span plants like those small flower plants which can thrive from a few weeks to months, while the larger trees will keep growing for many long years. It is necessary to provide living plants with proper treatment care and environment in order to help them grow healthily.
Improper treatment and neglect will cause definitely cause the plant to wither and die earlier than its life span.
To make houseplants to survive long depends on understanding their growing conditions and requirements. Ideally you should keep a precise profile of your plants in a notebook to make your gardening skill better and monitor the plant propagation and growth over the years.
TYPES OF HOUSE PLANTS
A lot depends on growing conditions. Plants such as Cineraria, Christmas Cherry and the Back-Eyed Susan are those types with about 12 months of growing cycle. Primroses belong to the short life span plant and will wither after a few weeks of colourful blooming. Bromeliads, Chrysanthemum, Kalanchoe and Poinsettia are other types of short cycle growth.
Plants like Kangaroo Vine, African Violet, Italian Bellflower, Shrimp Plant Grape Ivy, Boston Fern can grow happily for a few years before dying off, while larger plants like the Rubber Plant, Dracaenas, Cordyline, Dieffenbachia and Asparagus Ferns can live for long years or decades. Cacti and succulent indoor plants like Mother-in-law's Tongue Staphanotis, Kaffir Lily, Norfolk Island Pine and Aspidistra all live in excess of 50 years or more.
The Blacker and Decker bv5600 represents a huge leap forward for one of the biggest sellers of leaf blowers in the industry. The main criticism of leaf blowers from consumers has been the sheer noise they create while operating. Thanks to their new testing procedure, Black and Decker has been able to reduce noise by more than 50%, resulting in a powerful yet relaxing experience blowing leaves away.
Speaking of power. the BV5600 has a massive 12 amp motor, blowing at a huge 250mph speed, making leaves and other debris vanish from sight quickly. Not only that; it also vacuums and mulches, reducing 16 bags of leaves into just one bag, making the bv5600 one of the most efficient all-in-one blowers on the market. One of the things I found most impressive about the Black and Decker BV5600 was its fan. A common experience for gardening enthusiasts of all levels of experience is the clogging of leaves inside their blower, causing time delays while the blockage has to be cleared out. The bv5600 has a very powerful fan that eliminates this problem entirely, so no more clogging and a smooth ride.
A versatile blower, it has 2 speeds available. The first speed option is best used in flower beds and more detailed work, while the second option at 250mph, is best used for large open area’s. To complement this versatility, Black and Decker has added great ease of operation to the BV5600, cutting out the need to change tools while switching from blowing to vacuuming. They have also added a retainer to keep the extension in place so it doesn’t keep coming out.
Whether used for cleaning out driveways, lawns or patio’s the bv5600 is powerful enough to not miss a thing, efficient enough to mulch until the job is done without clogging, and quiet enough to make for a relaxing weekend afternoon in the garden.
Turbo Garden introduces the 24 Volt cord/cordless Lawn & Garden package with 3 tools, 2 batteries, and the patented 120V electric converter. The package includes the Turbo Garden Grass Trimmer with a 14 inch cutting diameter. Also included is the Turbo Garden Hedge Trimmer with an 18 inch blade length. Finally, the Turbo Garden Leaf Blower with a 135 mph blow speed. Cordless products are primarily used for light duty projects. They are lightweight, quiet, and easy to use, but should not be used for medium to heavy duty projects. The Turbo Garden 24 Volt Cordless Grass Trimmer is great for trimming grass and small weeds. The 24V Blower can help blow grass clippings, dust, dirt, and dry leaves. The 24V hedge trimmer works great on small shrubs and small bushes around the yard. The 120 Volt converter can be plugged in to help when the battery runs out, or if you need a little more power.
Even with mulch, Bermuda grass can take hold and ruin the look of your plants. In a cactus or succulent bed, it can be hard to get rid of when it grows up around the plants, between any mulch and landscaping fabric. The roots and stolons will keep coming back unless you remove them completely.
If you catch it early enough, you can probably yank out the few pieces of Bermuda grass. Dig down, if you can, to remove all the roots you can find. If it’s too close to cactus, this might not be so easy. Wear gloves, and try to get as close as you can to the cactus or succulent without disturbing its roots. Bermuda grass grows actively during spring and summer, so do this in winter or spring, when the grass is dormant.
You can also try applying weedkiller to the grass. Use a weedkiller that kills the roots, such as one that uses glyphosate (RoundUp). If the grass is close to the cactus or succulent, use a piece of paper or cardboard to shield the plant when you spray. Choose a day that’s not windy to avoid the herbicide from getting on your plants. This method may take months to work completely, and each time you try, you risk spraying your plants with herbicide. Obviously, this isn’t a choice if you want to keep your garden organic.
The last resort
If all else fails, you’ll have to pull up the plant. Dig around the cactus or succulent to preserve as much of the root ball as you can. Once you’ve got it dug up, remove all the grass roots and stolons you see. You may find them wrapped around the stem or roots of the plant. If necessary, remove the soil from around the roots to make sure you get all the Bermuda grass roots out.
Dig the soil around the cactus to remove any roots from the surrounding area. At this point, it’s probably best to replant the cactus or succulent elsewhere, in an area that has no Bermuda grass. That way, your cactus can grow on, and you can deal with any remaining Bermuda grass in the original area. It will almost always come back, even if you think you got it all. Even a small piece of root may regrow, especially if the area receives water. This method should get you a long way to being Bermuda grass-free in your low-water beds.
Warning: This method could possibly end up killing your cactus or succulent if it’s not well-established or if you damage too many roots. Be as gentle as you can, and give the plant extra care after you replant it.
If it reemerges
Once you’ve cleared out the Bermuda grass, keep a close eye on the area. Act quickly if you see new grass shoots. Check regularly in Bermuda’s growing season in spring and summer, as it can get a hold within a short time. It may mean you have to dig up the area several times in a season to remove more pesky stolons and roots. Bermuda grass is the cockroach of the plant world; it lives where other things cannot.
Although the teddy bear cactus (Cylindropuntia bigelovii), also known as the jumping cactus, makes a hardy and attractive addition to a desert garden, it’s also vicious. Its long, golden spines have tiny hooks on their ends, which means they’re harder to remove from the skin than other cactus spines. The cholla’s form also makes it particularly nasty. The spines are long and many, and go into your skin at various angles. Even if you only brush up against the cactus, you may get an entire pad stuck along a large expanse of skin. Touching one with your hand may mean you get the pad stuck on several of your fingers at once. Getting the spines out successfully will be slightly painful, but here’s the best method I’ve found, based on, unfortunately, painful personal experience.
Cut the spines off the cactus near the cactus pad. Use sharp kitchen scissors, if you can. Leave the spines as long as you can so you have adequate length sticking out from your skin to grab with tweezers. It’s a lot easier to remove the spines when you have the cactus pad removed.
Pick up the cactus pad with kitchen tongs. It will stick you if you use cloth, rubber, paper, etc. Pliers might work, too. Get it well away from you while you work on the spines (believe me, you’ll want it far, far away).
Cholla cactus spines in the skin.
Look closely at the angle the spines go into your skin and pull them out at the same angle.
Examine each spine separately. Look at the angle from which it goes into the skin.
Grasp each spine individually with a pair of tweezers. Pull it out at the exact same angle it has gone into the skin. If you don’t get the angle right, the hook on the end will grab onto the flesh. If this happens, you may see your skin seemingly being pulled away from the flesh beneath (yes, it does look that scary). If it is pulling a lot, stop and try again and adjust the angle. The spines come out fairly cleanly when you get the angle correct. Although the spines are sturdy, take care that you don’t break them off, which will leave part of the spine under your skin. Continue until you have removed all the spines.
Wash the affected area well and apply an antiseptic cream or spray. Usually, the wounds heal quickly and without problems. Always seek the help of a medical professional if you suspect an infection or develop any kind of symptom.
Disclaimer: This should not be construed as medical advice. Always seek qualified medical help if you have a problem with cactus spines you feel you cannot deal with, or if the cactus spines are on a sensitive area or if you have an underlying medical condition.